In Memphis we spent an evening on Beale Street listening to the blues in several different clubs. The next morning we watched the ducks march to the fountain at The Peabody Hotel. In the afternoon we were joined by our friend Charles and his daughter Sophie. The four of us went to the Civil Rights Museum - a very moving three hours. For dinner we had Barbecue at The Pig on Beale where they serve "Pork with an Attitude."
Beale Street
The Famous Peabody Ducks who march from their palace on the roof every morning at 11:00 and return every afternoon at 5:00. This is a 70+ year tradition that began when some duck hunters, after having a bit too much whiskey, decided it would be fun to put their live decoys in the hotel fountain.
Civil Rights Museum
"I may not get there with you but I want you to know that we
as a people will get to the promised land."
Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Mountaintop speech, April 3, 1968, Memphis, TN
We left Memphis and drove to Oxford, MS and our friends Charles Quinn, Susie Adams and their children Casey and Sophie. We enjoyed hanging out with them, checked out the campus of Ole Miss and the Oxford Square, and generally did our best to keep the sweating to a minimum. Friday morning we said our goodbyes and headed south to New Orleans. Our trip south included a very heavy thunderstorm which required high-speed wipers, emergency flashers and 40 mph max speed. As Seattleites, we sure aren't used to rain like that! Also, let me just say that armadillos should NOT try to cross streets or highways.
We stayed in the Garden District in New Orleans. We ate oysters (harvested from the Gulf) at the Acme Oyster House (they shuck 16,000 oysters a day at this place!) and spent an evening on Bourbon Street (Beale Street on steroids). The next day we did a self-guided walking tour through the Garden District then went to the French Quarter again. We spent all afternoon walking around and taking in the sights. We had several very interesting conversations with long-time locals. Through those conversations we learned more about the history and culture of New Orleans as well as first-hand experience with Katrina. In the evening we took the Haunted tour of the French Quarter. I bet we walked close to 10 miles - in the heat and humidity. We are acclimating to the east again, remembering fondly the HHH summers of our youth - Hazy, Hot and Humid!
We listened to some jazz at this joint.
Garden District
We ate gumbo, red beans and rice and a muffaletta sandwich here at Evelyn's Place, where "the old bitch holds court." Unfortunately we didn't get to meet Evelyn as she is no longer with us. But, our waiter was an elderly gentleman who was a joker and a storyteller. Among many things, we learned that this place used to be called Stonehenge back in the day when the merchant marines would have time to kill before their ships left port. Sailors of every nationality had their own watering holes, this was where the Englishmen hung out.
This is the Lalaurie Mansion. I took this picture. See the ghost?
