Southeast Atlantic Coast - the Lowcountry

We are in Durham with Rob's brother Brian and his family - Barbra, Luke and Jamie.  We'll be here for three days and then will be off to PA and NJ to be with more family.  So, we have begun the second phase of our journey - family time!  It is kind of bittersweet to leave phase one behind - the "getting to."  However, we are very happy to be with our families and anticipate with pleasure our upcoming week on Long Beach Island, NJ with both the Zimmerman and the Murray sides of the family - about 30 of us in all, including 3 cousins from Scotland!  We'll be swimming and sunning and laughing and eating and playing mini-golf and, and, and...!  Erin is back from her year in Central America and joining us.  Heather and Will are flying in to be with us as well. 

On our way here from the Gulf Coast we visited Savannah and Charleston.  We camped for two nights outside of Savannah at Skidaway Island State Park.  We had our first encounter with a significant mosquito population.  We swam at Tybee Island, GA, Hunting Island, SC and Huntington Beach, SC.  We stayed in a hotel in Charleston (the air conditioning was very welcome after sweltering in our tent for 2 nights!)  We voted Charleston our favorite city of all those that we have visited thus far.  Such a beautiful place.  Below are a few photos to document our time in the Lowcountry.

Rob and I have both recently read Pat Conroy's latest novel, South of Broad.  And I read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt over the time we were in Savannah and Charleston.  Not a coincidence.

 In one of the many squares in Savannah - ubiquitous Spanish Moss.  We didn't take many photos of the incredible homes because most of them were obscured by the abundant foliage.

The underrepresented side of James Oglethorpe, the founder and architect of Savannah.

Our campsite in Skidaway State Park.  You can't see the mosquitoes, but they are there!  And, the night time low temperature might have gotten to 85 degrees.  A memorable time.

Hunting Island, SC

Charleston waterfront

One of the many incredible homes south of Broad in Charleston

On the way to Huntington Beach - Lowcountry marsh

This is Rebecca.  We bought several of her baskets at her stand along the Sweetgrass Basketmaker's Highway (Route 17 north of Charleston).  This basketmaking is a 400-year-old craft brought here by slaves from West Africa.  The lowcountry African American population call themselves the Gullah.

Gratitudes after about 4 weeks

In addition to being incredibly grateful that we have the good health, time and resources to take this trip, we are specifically grateful for:

• Our car and our mechanic - we have had zero car issues
• Traveling mercies - we have seen no accidents nor experienced any of our own
• Good weather juju - it started raining just as we finished packing up our campsite in Arizona; we had 2 dry days in New Orleans and it was raining the morning we left; we got to Shaggy's on the Gulf Coast just as a torrential rainstorm hit and we couldn't have found a better place to wait out the storm
• Kindness - we have lost track of the number of people - strangers, friends and family - who have told us to "be safe"
• Limes
• Technology - Tomasina our GPS guide, iTrip, cellphones, Blackberry and wireless internet 
• Our travel mugs, Nalgene bottles and the cooler - they keep us fueled on the road
• Maps and good roads - self explanatory
• The Murray Homestead Sitters - ditto
• Low loss ratio - we have left only one thing behind that was easily replaced; we have almost left a wallet, the camera and our black box of electronics
• Each other and the laughs we've shared

Mississippi Gulf Coast

Sunday night:  Today we drove from New Orleans to Valdosta, GA.  We traveled interstate 10 through 4 states - Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida - and at least 4 rainstorms.  The "best" part of the trip was through Mississippi.  We spent time in Pass Christian, revisiting where Rob did Katrina reconstruction work with MDS (Mennonite Disaster Service) in 2008. We also saw first-hand evidence of the oil disaster.  Below are a few photos from our day.

This is Shaggy's.  It was under 30 feet of water when the Katrina storm surge hit Pass Christian.  Today we had a great meal here while we waited out a torrential rainstorm.  Rob visited this place in 2008, but never got to eat here.

This gentleman was kind enough to let me take a picture of his back.  He and his fellow workers were having lunch at Shaggy's.  Seatow is normally an AAA-type organization for boaters, providing emergency towing and such.  Right now they are working for BP.

We saw workers and equipment poised and ready for oil cleanup

A tagged house

One of the houses Rob worked on with MDS

Campus of Southern Mississippi University (formally Gulf Park College) in Long Beach, MS.  Friendship Oak is a live oak.  A beautiful and historic tree.

Friendship Oak

"I am 500 years old and I survived Hurricane Katrina.  Please don't climb on my branches."

Memphis, New Orleans and in between

In Memphis we spent an evening on Beale Street listening to the blues in several different clubs.  The next morning we watched the ducks march to the fountain at The Peabody Hotel.  In the afternoon we were joined by our friend Charles and his daughter Sophie. The four of us went to the Civil Rights Museum - a very moving three hours. For dinner we had Barbecue at The Pig on Beale where they serve "Pork with an Attitude."

Beale Street

The Famous Peabody Ducks who march from their palace on the roof every morning at 11:00 and return every afternoon at 5:00.  This is a 70+ year tradition that began when some duck hunters, after having a bit too much whiskey, decided it would be fun to put their live decoys in the hotel fountain.

Civil Rights Museum

"I may not get there with you but I want you to know that we 

as a people will get to the promised land."

Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Mountaintop speech, April 3, 1968, Memphis, TN

We left Memphis and drove to Oxford, MS and our friends Charles Quinn, Susie Adams and their children Casey and Sophie.  We enjoyed hanging out with them, checked out the campus of Ole Miss and the Oxford Square, and generally did our best to keep the sweating to a minimum.  Friday morning we said our goodbyes and headed south to New Orleans.  Our trip south included a very heavy thunderstorm which required high-speed wipers, emergency flashers and 40 mph max speed.  As Seattleites, we sure aren't used to rain like that!  Also, let me just say that armadillos should NOT try to cross streets or highways. 

We stayed in the Garden District in New Orleans.  We ate oysters (harvested from the Gulf) at the Acme Oyster House (they shuck 16,000 oysters a day at this place!) and spent an evening on Bourbon Street (Beale Street on steroids).  The next day we did a self-guided walking tour through the Garden District then went to the French Quarter again. We spent all afternoon walking around and taking in the sights.  We had several very interesting conversations with long-time locals.  Through those conversations we learned more about the history and culture of New Orleans as well as first-hand experience with Katrina.  In the evening we took the Haunted tour of the French Quarter.  I bet we walked close to 10 miles - in the heat and humidity.  We are acclimating to the east again, remembering fondly the HHH summers of our youth - Hazy, Hot and Humid!

We listened to some jazz at this joint.

 Garden District

We ate gumbo, red beans and rice and a muffaletta sandwich here at Evelyn's Place, where "the old bitch holds court."  Unfortunately we didn't get to meet Evelyn as she is no longer with us.  But, our waiter was an elderly gentleman who was a joker and a storyteller.  Among many things, we learned that this place used to be called Stonehenge back in the day when the merchant marines would have time to kill before their ships left port.  Sailors of every nationality had their own watering holes, this was where the Englishmen hung out.  

 This is the Lalaurie Mansion.  I took this picture.  See the ghost?

Favorite on-the-road Lyrics

I want to watch the ocean bend
the edges of the sun and
I want to get swallowed up
in an ocean of love.
(Lucinda Williams)

We can chase down our enemies
and bring them to their knees
We can bomb the world to pieces
But we can't bomb it into peace.
(Michael Franti)

On the Road - Route 40, that is...

Two days of cruise control and iTunes and we are in Memphis!

Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo

Observations after 2.5 weeks - from Shawnee, OK

• Photos do no justice to the beauty of the western US
• We are losing track of the days of the week
• Park rangers are cute
• People are friendly and helpful
• Old friends make life rich
• We are acquiring meaningful works of art
• We have driven over 3800 miles and taken 725 pictures
• Rob ate a brain taco and Frito pie
• We watched World Cup soccer in Portland, Los Osos, San Diego, Williams and Rio Rancho
• Our bumper is getting covered up by stickers
• We saw a beautiful live bull elk and a dead armadillo
• Europeans love the western US
• We are pretty sure we know why the Sonics are now called the Thunder
• We love our iTrip
• Humidity makes us nostalgic
• We need a car air freshener